Friday, February 27, 2009

Besboussa and Bad Translations.

Typos are the bane of my existence.

Not because I'm an uptight grammar weasel. As you can tell from these fragments. No, typos in Egypt can range from the humorous to the unintentionally witty to soul-crushing lies that ruin our feeble attempts to bond with our Egyptian friends and co-workers. 

Now, like I said, sometimes typos are a source of amusement for me and my roommates. For instance, I recently saw a sign for a video game "chompionship" in Maasara. Brilliant! No one has ever discovered this lovely little play on words before. PTAs everywhere: next year's pancake eating contest fundraiser must be announced as the "Pancake Eating Chompionship." Perfect. 

Other ones are simply confusing--or, perhaps, a result of poor pronunciation making communication a little tricky. Practicing English with my host sister the other day, she told me that she breefars Doritos. It took about 10 minutes for us to figure out she had switched a "b" for a "p", accented the wrong syllable, and changed a vowel. Ah, yes, she prefers Doritos. 

Sometimes my students write things like "Sameer meat his girlfriend" instead of met, or mispronounce "six" and "beach," causing them to accidentally sound quite a bit more vulgar. My students also mix up posessive pronouns and subjects fairly often. For example, a student recently said to me, "Yesterday I saw your mother."
"Really? You saw my mother?"
"Yes, you saw my mother."

Now, don't even ask me about my Arabic pronunciation and spelling...all this to say that Egyptians are incredibly gracious about our desecration of their language, and the small mistakes they make in English are generally endearing.

Except for when they dash my hopes.
Now, everyone knows that I'm not too handy in the kitchen. But really, honestly, I swear to you that I've been improving by leaps and bounds. For the past month, I've been working in the evenings, providing ample time to dink around in the kitchen and see what edible concoction I can create out of leftovers in our fridge and local produce. My eggplants are still terrible, but everything else has been turning out pretty well.

I was getting so comfortable with the realm of cooking, actually, that I decided that food would be an excellent conversation topic for my classes. 
Enter a new form of soft diplomacy (Obama, I hope you're listening): S'mores
I went to the import grocery store, put down half my week's salary on marshmallows, cadbury chocolate, and graham crackers, and we roasted them over candles on my desk. They loved them. + 10 points.

The next time, I would not be so successful.
Several weeks ago, I got into a conversation with my Egyptian coworkers about Egyptian food. Like most Egyptians I encounter, they were incredulous that my roommates and I actually ate local food--we knew all the national dishes, liked them, and actually cooked them at home sometimes. We eat the pita bread bought off the street, drink our tea as sweet as the rest of them, and can eat with our hands like its no one's business. 

[As an aside, in Istanbul, they apparently eat with forks and knives. Nod and I are so accustomed to eating with our hands, however, that we usually opted to go without. Turks are also apparently really big on hand sanitizers, and often leave some packets of Handi-Wipes with your check. At one restaurant, however, the waiter looked so distressed that we were eating with our hands that he actually came around with a bottle of hand sanitizer to clean our hands for us.]

I began bragging to my coworkers that I had once made Besboussa--a sweet Egyptian pastry, somewhat in the family of Baklava and such. They didn't believe me. I swore that I would make some and bring it in.
Two days ago, I decided to make good on my promise. I bought a box of mix from a cheap, Lebanese brand that is famous for its typos and poor English translation.
"Annoint the pan with oil," the box read. "It mixes two cups of yogurt and three spoons to put butter. It agitates until the similar cream."

The really obvious mistakes I was sort of able to check by looking at the Arabic. No problem, I thought. Now, the whole deal about Besboussa is that the whole thing is supposed to be soaked in a sugar syrup. No sugar syrup, no besboussa. The instructions began like this:
Instructions for the Cold Syrup. I then had to boil water and sugar together. No biggie.
Now, it clearly said cold syrup. So I let it sit on the stove for 10 minutes to reach room temperature again before I poured it over the baked besboussa
Only, the sugar didn't really soak in. It just kind of formed a sugar lake on top. Hmm. I sprinkled on some coconut and peanuts. There, now that looks prettier, right?

I bit my lip. I mean, it tasted a little strange without the sugar going all the way through it...but this is a hospitality culture, right? Surely my co-workers will recognize the significance of my gesture and accept my gift with graciousness. Surely they'll understand that my little heart is in each piece of besboussa and that all I want to do is be accepted as their friend. Surely.

I carefully packed a dozen pieces of besboussa into a little tupperware box, meticulously placing a layer of tinfoil between the rows so that they wouldn't stick to one another. I cheerfully skipped off to work, excited to bring my dear co-workers a little token of my friendship and appreciation. When I arrived, three of them were sitting outside and sharing a cigarette. I plopped down my box and took of the tupperware cover with a flourishing voila! 

They stared.
"What's wrong with the color?" asked one.
I squinted at it. Ok, so it was pretty white, and the normal besboussa is usually kind of a golden brown.
"Don't worry," I told him. "The taste is still delicious."
"Uh, one moment. Let's get everyone so that we can all eat together."
All three of them got up to go inside. They didn't come back. When I peaked in the door, they were all guiltily sitting in the corner, trying to look suddenly busy with work.
I deflated a bit. They weren't that bad, were they?

My dear friend Sally came out next. I confessed to her that I had a little trouble with the sugar. I offered her one, and she accepted reluctantly.
She took one bite. "Alissa, where is the sugar?"
My face slumped into a disappointed frown. "The box said cold syrup."
"Of course, it must be hot."
Sigh. Obviously, right? I should have realized it. She finished half of her piece.

Another coworker breezed by us, on his way out on an errand. I stopped him and insisted that he eat a piece. He stared at it, and then at Sally.
"I already ate one," Sally told him.
He took one bite and then looked for a place to put it down. 
"You can put it back in the box," I sighed, totally defeated and feeling sorry for myself. I closed up the box and talked to Sally instead.

C'mon, cheap Lebanese brand! Couldn't you have checked that one little detail... Hot is a lot different than Cold! These things are important! 
My roommate Kirsten insists that she likes my Besboussa better than the real stuff, but kind of in that same tone of voice that your parents use to console you when you've failed at an art project but they hang it up on the fridge anyway. 

At the end, I ended up giggling over it--poor Egyptians, being force-fed completely terrible pastries! I like to imagine the equivalent situation happening in America...a poor Japanese exchange student trying to fit in by making her American friends brownies, only forgetting to add eggs or water to the mix. Alright, maybe it's not so bad, and my co-workers actually do like me for who I am, not for my besboussa. and that's a good thing! 

Friday, February 20, 2009

in which life takes a turn for the truly bizarre.

Just when I thought my life was slowing into a tranquil, 40 hours-a-week and homemade cooking lifestyle... well, here's just a sample of how my night has gone.

A crazy fanny-pack wearing American woman wandered into my language center, raving about teaching Mark Twain in China and making racist comments about every nationality she knew of, and is now a new English teacher. Sigh.

A bomb exploded in a crowded, colorful market in Cairo where I often go, targeting the tourists who were drinking coffee and shopping for scarves next to the holiest mosque in Egypt. Still waiting for the full report, but there's at least one confirmed dead.

After reeling from this news, I was followed home by a creepy guy from the metro who was apparently a big fan of my "Made by Um Hani" body (which has gotten a little softer since my host mother has been feeding me lard and fried eggplant for the past 9 months). I was about to yell at him in front of a group of other guys and put the shame/honor culture at work, but these other guys decided they were also quite appreciative and decided to share their comments. Normally I don't get rattled by the come-on's, but maxed out by the news of the bombing, I wasn't really in the mood to suffer testosterone crazed idiots on the street.

Cursing loudly under my breath, I ducked into my favorite grocer's to lose the creepy guy. We had a long and heartfelt conversation about the bombing. He then sold me lots of canned beans to get me ready for my vegan fast and wished me a happy lent. I felt a lot better.

I was worried that my parents wouldn't come to Egypt anymore, but I got a quick call home, and it sounds like the trip is still on.

Now I'm eating couscous and drinking a beer I've been saving for just such an occasion, and life is on the up again. Welcome to Egypt!

Almost humorously, I started a blog post a few days ago talking all about how life here has become so normal; that when I returned from my travels in the Maghreb and Turkey, a subtle transformation had taken place. Perhaps those of you who have spent time abroad in unfamiliar environs can relate to this: for the first 9 months of my stay here, everything I saw in Cairo seemed oddly two-dimensional. And I don't mean that in a poetic, metaphorical sense.

As I went to and fro in this bulging, bustling city, I would look at the buildings and shops and see something like the facade of an old western town. The city itself was a kind of backdrop for my experimental social interactions with an abstract notion called "Egypt." These are Egyptian sandwich shops, I would think as I passed a plate of steaming falafel and beans from a street vendor. These are Egyptian subway stations, I thought, noting how the anarchical crowding of the metro ticket vendors and the crushing collision of bodies squeezing on and off of the metro cars seemed wholly different from my experiences on Chicago El's. (Well, ok, maybe not totally different...) And then, These are Egyptian clothing stores. These are Egyptian mothers. These are Egyptian taxis. And so on. When you are always starkly aware of being in a foreign environment, your vision seems flatter. Everything I see is a representative sample (This is an Egyptian restaurant), not a unique place to see and consider for what it is as an individual entity. No one will accuse me of understanding the physics of optics or anything about the human body, but I'll stand by this: my visual perceptions of Cairo were somehow less robust than they would be in a western environmet.

I also felt myself wobble under the cultural pressure. In America, I consider myself to have a long fuse (or at least be sufficiently passive aggressive not to get angry in the moment). So what if I got woken up every night in my old Seattle apartment by the lesbian DJ couple upstairs? Or if it cost $1500 to replace the wheel bearings on my trusty ol' Kia, knowing that the car was going to become my little sister's after one month anyway? Or so what if our clueless landlord forgot to sign us over to a new account, resulting in the gas company showing up at our door one day to shut off our utilities? Meh! say I. While I'll admit to being prone to a little anxiety from time to time, anger isn't really something in my emotional repertoire. Unless you bring up the subject of gender inequality at SPU or try to convince me how God has ordained men to be the head of the human race; those are fightin' words, my friends!

But for most of my time in Egypt, I've felt a little more unbalanced--flaring up over nothing, getting exasperated at the smallest misunderstanding. Since coming back from my travels three weeks ago, though? I once again feel myself. Sure, I get tense after bombs and irritated still with harassment, but I feel much steadier. What would set me off in America is setting me off here--but no more, no less. I am finally, truly at home.

But just when I was feeling like life was settling into something ordinary and tranquil--almost tediously slow--life once again take a turn for the bizarre.

It began when a friend called me up to see if I would go with her to visit a mutual Egyptian friend of ours.
"Sure, I'd love to go with you to see Nesma."
"Great because, uh, have you heard about her romantic developments?"
"I know she met this 50+ year old Saudi-Canadian on BintHalal.com..."
[This translates into something like, "kosher girl." Online dating at its finest!]
"Well, turns out that this Saudi-Canadian guy is still really interested in marrying her."
"Wow, that's amazing that he's willing to come all the way to Egypt when they met on the internet and all that."
"Well, that's not all--he's already married. Nesma would be the second wife."

Ah yes, Bigamy- That time honored tradition! True, Islam technically allows a man to marry up to 4 wives, provided that he can treat them all the same. I know that Nesma is eager to get married, and this guy apparently has some nice qualities about him (at least, nice qualities posted on his online profile)...but c'mon, who really wants to be #2?

So we went, with a kilo of chocolate cookies in hand to bring as a hostess gift. One of the best parts about Nesma's family is that they have a huge sweet tooth and never overfeed you, like many Egyptians do out of hospitality. Not only did we polish off the cookies, but we were each served a huge tub of homemade rice pudding and some hot chocolate to wash it down. Nice.

Now, my friend and I were hoping to stage something of an intervention, but I hadn't seen Nesma in a long time and wasn't quite sure how to bring it up. So...Nesma, I hear that you're thinking about marrying a Bigamist? She didn't bring it up, so I just let it lie. Instead, we watched an Indian movie in Hindi with Arabic subtitles. It was fantastic; long live bollywood. Maybe we'll get a chance to try to talk some sense into her next time.

Next, I was asked to come into work a little early in order to help a girl with a visa application so that she could study in England. I don't know anything about visa applications, but I know what an important opportunity it is to get abroad. Anything to help, right? It turns out that she had actually applied once and been rejected, and the British embassy sent a long letter explaining all their reasons for rejecting her. No problem, we just need to address their concerns, and then we could hopefully get her off to the UK.
The girl came, accompanied by some kind of male relative. The conversation went something like this.
Me: "So, the application wants to know if you have any relatives in England who might sponsor you or who you might live with."
Girl: (after a long discussion and deliberation with some male relative accompanying her). no, I don't.
man: yes, you do, you have an uncle there.
girl: (more long discussion in Arabic). No, no, forget this. Don't say his name.
Me: okay then... So, why do you want to study English?
Girl: To study. I don't know. No reason.
Me: You're going to have to give me something else.
Girl: I already wrote it all on the first application.
Me: right. and they rejected it. So help me out here.
Girl: I don't know.
Me: Ok, I'm going to put down that you want to be a journalist, since that was your major in college. Now, the letter says that 68,000 LE suddenly appeared in your bank account with explanation, and the embassy would like a little clarification about where these funds came from.
Man: Why do they need to know?
Me: Well, she isn't employed, so they're a little curious how she got it.
Man: Do you think I can't financially support her? (getting a little insulted)
Me: No, I'm just trying to fill out this application for you.
Girl: (sighing loudly). I already wrote this all in the first application.
Me: Right, and they rejected it, so throw me a bone here! I'm trying to help! Now, what do you want to do after you finish your studies?
Man: She will continue to stay in England and work there.
Me: No, she won't.
Man: Why?
Me: It's explicitly prohibited on all the visa materials.
[Man and girl exchange glances.]
Me: You knew that, right? So we need to tell the embassy why you want to study English, and what you'll do with your language skills, and what you'll do when you finish.
Girl: [mumbles]
Me: What?
Girl: I don't know. I wrote it all in my first application.

Goodness knows why she actually wanted to get to England, but I have a feeling that despite my best, the British embassy isn't going to take the bait on this girl!

Next. I have a slightly sociopathic Kurdish Iraqi student at my language center. Understandably anti-social, he worked as a translator for the American army in Iraq until his friend got his head shot off by a sniper. He's been a pain as a student, though--sitting through most of my class with a sort of "So what?" sneer on his face and refusing to give me more than two words answers (this being in a conversation class, too. C'mon! Help a girl out here!). His English level is really high, too, so I have to work hard to actually offer his class anything worth his time. The combination was giving me so much anxiety that I was having trouble sleeping at night.

Finally, one night I decided to screw it and just go with my usual chintzy antics that I use with all my other happy-go-lucky students.
"So," I ask the class, "what causes us stress?" I wrote the words in big bubble letters on the board.
I started to write out some new vocabulary on the white board that we'd use for discussion when Shamel suddenly piped up.
"Homesickness."
"I'm sorry?"
"Homesickness stresses me out."

Ah, the boy speaks. And he's homesick! He suddenly became much more human in my mind. Understandably homesick, too--he has 10 brothers and sisters all from the same town in the Kurdish area of Iraq, and a fiancee back home, too. After this moment, he began to loosen up considerably in class. Whew. I've been able to sleep at night since that moment, too.

Now that he's talking more, though, he turns out to be just as sinister a personality as it first appeared.
"So, tell me something interesting about what you did last weekend, Shamel."
"Everything about my life is interesting."
"ok....why don't you tell me something boring about your life, then?"
"Nothing's boring."
"Right. Well, tell me what you did on Friday, then."
"I slept. I played games."
"Games? like soccer?"
"No, computer games." He then rattles off now less than 20 different games that he has on hand.
"And when I get bored of those games? I make viruses. I send them to people I think deserve it."
"Remind me never to give you my email address."

Enter English conversation lesson on Karma.

But in between episodes of bizarre interactions (more stories from the fanny-packed racist to come in the next few days, i'm sure), however, there have been some truly beautiful and homey moments.

Last night, for example, I went to Maasara to spend the evening with Um Hani and Sara, the sixteen year old. I brought my Arabic homework with. Um and Abu Hani were in the other room, helping to arrange a new marriage for a widower from their church. They came in, very exasperated and rubbing their temples from the hours of haggling over how much gold this guy should buy the bride and such.

Sara and I cuddled up under the blankets as she helped me with my Arabic homework and we both teased Um Hani lovingly. Um Hani finally relaxed from her earlier conversation and joined us. Um Hani is illiterate--she got married at 16, and despite wanting to take English classes at one point from her church, never actually learned how to read. I showed her my little alphabet grid. Alif, bey, tey, they I started reciting the names of the letters to her. Sara grabbed a pencil.

"Here, Mama, let me show you how to write. Every day, you'll learn 4 letters." Um Hani's face sort of grinned and grimaced at the same time. She spent the next hour working on the letter "Alif," which looks like a long stick with a little tiny "s" perched on top like a hat. Little Alifs went off in every each direction on a sheet of scrap paper, with some very bizarre permutations. But after a while, she got the hang of it. On to "bey", which is a flat half circle with one dot beneath is. "Bey is for 'Bint'" she repeated again and again, trying to memorize words in association with the letter.

Teaching a grown woman to write may have been one of the more heart warming experiences of my time here. In the morning, Um Hani cooked me scrambled eggs in about a pound of butter, which kept me full until about 4pm.

Even as I feel more and more comfortable in Egypt--no, life is never dull.

Wednesday, February 18, 2009

Vegan for Jesus.

Dear readers. 

When I first returned from my wanderings through Morocco and Istanbul, I pledged a new Alissa: one that would take long walks, cook real food and shop at the farmer's market, one that would try to avoid looking at Rodney Yee's awkwardly tight spandex shorts while doing yoga in my living room. In short, I promised Oprah. An embodiment of St. Paul's "all things in moderation." Gandhi and Jesus wrapped up into one. A walking zen garden. 

A friend wrote me one week after I posted my rosy resolutions for the new year: "Uh, Alissa, that's great that you want to start drinking herbal tea and self-actualize on your morning walk to work...but has it occured to you that you have never actually maintained a low-key lifestyle in your entire life?" 

True, I was aiming a little high. But I am proud to say that, aided by regular lapses with McDonald's $1 hot fudge sundaes, I have managed to hold onto my intentions well enough. I'm even drinking herbal ginger tea as we speak. I've been walking to work every day, listening to Radio Lab podcasts and contemplating the Nile. While I've had a few disasters in the kitchen, I am becoming an expert in cooking tomatoes and eggplants. (Ok...the eggplants are still giving me trouble. Let's just keep it at, "an expert in cooking tomatoes.") I won't be reaching nirvana anytime soon, but my success in slowing down and treating my body a bit better bodes well for a reduced heart attack risk if I do end up going to grad school next year. So long as I can lapse out of my healthy lifestyle once a day to buy a McDonald's $1 hot fudge sundae, that is... 

But the true test hasn't even begun. Next Wednesday marks the beginning of Ash Wednesday for the western church. In my last post, I panicked that God was going to take sugar away from me--goodbye to copious cups of sweet tea, daily stops to the ice cream store, kilos of baklava, and coconut juice in the spring. Sigh. 
Luckily, as a cross stitched pillow in my mother's room always reminded me: when God closes a door, he somehow opens a window. 
Ok, so maybe it was me who slammed shut the door on the possibility of giving up sugar for lent (Please God, have mercy on me!)--but he did provide me with a convenient out.

Coming home from work one night this week, I was mulling once again over the problem of lent, and how I could possibly kill my sweet tooth for a whole 40 days. Right as I came in the door, my roommate called out, "So, what do you think about vegan fasting for Lent?" 

Yes! Here was the sign I was looking for! Now, going vegan and giving up all meat, all dairy, and all egg products may hardly seem like a "convenient" out. But so long as I can keep drinking sweet tea and eating bakalava? Oh, I can work with this. 

Vegan fasting isn't an arbitrary decision, either. The orthodox Christians in Egypt (called Copts) observe a whopping 210 vegan fasting days every year. Two hundred ten! Those kids aren't messing around! It's an old, time honored tradition with its roots in the very earliest Christian communities. So my entire apartment will be joining in not only an ancient practice, but a local practice. I'm looking forward to connecting with Egypt in a deeper way like this--it's so rare that we feel like we can genuinely and fully participate in so many different parts of the culture and society here. 

So, starting February 25th? Goodbye to McDonald's ice cream sundaes, but hopefully I will be welcoming in an interesting and challenging new phase to my stay here in the Middle East.

Monday, February 16, 2009

Follow up: notes on a kidnapping.

Below I have posted a mass email that was sent out by Philip Rizk (see posts below). Since I documented other news about his recent kidnapping by security forces in Egypt, I thought it would be appropriate to post here.
---------------------------------------------
Letter from Philip Rizk

Today is the fourth day of freedom after my four day imprisonment. Every once in a while I am hit by the incomprehensible contrast between absolute freedom and absolute confinement. During those four long days I didn't do much else but be interrogated, sleep or try to sleep.

Before I go into any other details I want to say shukran, thank you, really. I am overwhelmed by the response of family, friends and strangers all around the world during my imprisonment. As the stories started bombarding me after my release it was hard to take it all in. I have no words to express how grateful I am to so many. At one point one of my interrogators- they called him "Malek"- ended a session by saying, "the next time you will tell me about all these international relationships of yours," I had no idea what he was referring to. I really believe that the pressure from so many places and people made a big difference and resulted in my quick release.

Diaa Gad, 22 yrs, is an Egyptian blogger who was taken the very same day I was. I had spoken to him for the first time a few days before Egyptian "state" security kidnapped both of us from difference places. Diaa had called to ask about details about our march to Gaza. As we knew our phones would be tapped I told him we could not gave any details over the phone and asked for us to meet the following day in person. He never called again but his name came up during interrogation- again with "Malek"- who asked me what I knew about Diaa and then proceeded to tell me word for word what I had said to him on the phone that day. Diaa does not have many of the luxuries that I have being bi-national and having lived abroad. At this point he is still in custody and his lawyer and family do not know his whereabouts. The campaign that was started for me needs to move to him and others. These sorts of actions are completely illegal and yet a common occurrence in Egypt. Currently there are thousands in Egyptian jails without trial. We need to stand up and reject these actions. This brings us back to the start of those four days...

I was held for four days- blindfolded, barefoot and handcuffed almost at all times. When I arrived they told me to forget my name I was now number 21. The psychological pressure was intense though at no point was I physically harmed. At the time of my arrest I was protesting the siege on Gaza. This is a criticism aimed primarily at Israel but also at other countries that support this siege including Egypt which keeps its borders sealed except for rare exceptions. My four days of imprisonment are nothing compared to the months and years of siege on Gaza, which is nothing else than forced imprisonment. The Gaza Strip is a different form of concentration camp. No Palestinian- whether students, the sick, businessmen and women- can travel beyond its borders and Israel permits only a very very few internationals to enter. These- mainly journalists and NGO workers like I used to be- remind me of zoo visitors that take pictures and talk about the terrible conditions of the animals in their cages but then leave, in the meantime Gaza remains the same. According to the UN 85% of Gazans are reliant on food aid, again like animals in a zoo they are fed and kept alive, but barely. Leaked reports from the Red Cross recently reported high percentages of malnutrition of children especially in the refugee camps- 70% of Gazans are refugees from 1948. The purpose of our protest march was and continues to be to raise awareness of the ongoing siege on Gaza building on the momentum of protest during the Israeli military onslaught on Gaza at the start of this year.

Your outrage about my unjustified imprisonment mirrors my outrage about this ongoing injustice done to the Palestinian people. If our governments and representatives the world over will not change the status quo we- the multitude- must mobilize, on the streets, in the cyber sphere, in government, in schools, anywhere to call for change. Such an outrage changed South Africa not that long ago and it can change the injustice carried out against Palestinians today.

Sunday, February 15, 2009

Valentine's by the Nile and Lenten sacrifice.

Ah, the day of love. Romance, deadly amounts of cologne, and pink sequined headscarves all rustled in the breeze. Park benches by the Nile were filled with couples in appropriately festive color coordination, all talking softly just inches from each other's faces. Habi Balentinez Day, came the creepy come-on of the day as we walked down on the street. Ah yes, it was Valentine's Day in Cairo.

Yes, Valentine's Day has made it full circle around the globe--from the Greeks in Alexandria paying homage to Aphrodite some few thousand years ago, to boys selling plastic red roses on Egyptian metro cars today, courtesy of Hallmark and all the rest. Sadly, no one answered my plea to send me some candy conversation hearts--my favorite Valentine tradition of all. According to some ESL prep materials I was searching online, an estimated 2 billion Valentine cards are sent every year...85 percent of them by women. Yup, let's be honest--in a country that struggles to get their young people married by 30, if at all, Valentine's Day in Egypt was mostly an exercise in estrogen and singlehood awareness. 

Even my 16 year old host sister--way too young to be married or (in my opinion) engaged, was lamenting her single status: "I want a boy!" she wailed, as we successfully booted some googly-eyed couple from their Nile-side bench and settled in with a pile of candy to down our sorrows with. Now, it's not that Sara lacks male attention, exactly. Her older brother and his wife have actually been conspiring to get her engaged, and have started to bring some young guys around their apartment to meet Sara. This all needs to be strictly supervised, of course, and kept secret from the overprotective Dad (who recently has taken to telling Sara that, nevermind boys, she's becoming a nun. To which Sara responds, "Don't be silly, baba. Here, let me make you some tea.." which he accepts with a reluctant smile)

So a system has been worked out that these young guys are whisked up to her older brother's apartment upstairs, and then Sara 'just happens' to stop by for a sum total of 3 seconds, and she then tells her brother whether she might want to get engaged to him or not. Bam. Speed dating, Egyptian style. Sara seems to have a pretty good head on her shoulders, though: "If I engage now with a boy? I will remember," she says, miming big gestures to show an engagement ring and pointing to her head, "and nooo study!" She grins. At sixteen, I don't doubt it-- At an age when most of us were passing notes in the hallways, the idea of actually being engaged to a boy? Math homework wouldn't stand a chance.

But on this loveydovey holiday in Egypt, Sara had become my surrogate Valentine anyway--no boys allowed. Sara is the baby of the family and works hard--studies all day, cooks, cleans, and gets tied up emotionally with all the various family problems. It was high time to get the girl out of her house and actually let her be a kid again! My roommate and I swooped into action. Our day went something like this:

10am: Kirsten and I left our apartment, buying up about a dozen pieces of candy before we went.

11am: picked up Sara, and force-fed her several pieces of candy. Sugar starts the day out right, right?

12pm: A 20 cent, half hour boat ride on the Nile. Sara can't swim and is terrified of water, and has never been on a boat before. Coaxed on and seated snugly between us, she finally relaxed as the Arabic pop music blared and the tiny little motor boat did a little lap in the broad river. Success.

1pm: Lunch at a cafe in the nearby opera house, including 3 glasses of melt-your-face fresh strawberry juice, cheese sandwiches, and chocolate filled croissants. Sara called her older sister, who's stuck home with a baby, to taunt her a little bit. All of us decided to cancel our afternoon obligations; Sara cancelled her evening English lesson, and decided that she'll blame it on us when her mom will undoubtedly get pissed. But today feels once-in-a-lifetime; we don't want to rush. We sat in this outdoor cafe inside the opera house complex for two hours, the sun and breeze reminding me of spring breaks spent in southern California. Egypt has apparently skipped winter this year, and we've been clocking in pretty consistently at 75 degrees and sunny most days. Ahh. Perfect.

2pm: We found a park bench by the Nile, and Kirsten and Sara began to commiserate over their manless status. Being separated by 1500 miles and Sudan from Nod, they gave me honorary status in their cranky Valentine's Day club. More candy eased the pain.

3pm: We bought ice cream bars from our local "a little bit of everything" shop.

4pm: I avoid near collision with a horse cart as we cross a really busy, 6 lane road next to my apartment. Unfortunately, the horse itself wasn't so lucky, and fell onto a car, smashing in the entire hood. I've never seen anything quite like it. 

Maybe not the most conventional Valentine's Day, but it did the trick. The evening ended with a table of old American friends and a $10, all-you-can-eat Indian and Chinese food buffet, in which we were obliged to polish off at least two heaping plates a person. Delish

In other news, Ash Wednesday is coming up in two weeks. I'm hoping to observe Lent this year in the customary way by giving up something for 40 days. Now, as my account of Valentine's day might suggest, my sugar intake has been something truly epic in Egypt. Yesterday was a bit higher than average (I neglected to mention that I actually ate leftover cake for breakfast and lunch, in addition to all of our candy, fruit juice, and ice cream), but let's say I probably average probably 3 cups of processed sugar a day.

Looking at Ash Wednesday on my calendar, I suddenly had a sinking feeling in my stomach. I decided to squint my eyes and offer up a really quick, "Dear God, what should I give up for Lent? Please don't let it be sugar!" and opened my eyes again before God could say anything. What I think I got in response was something like, "Go check your attitude and come back and ask me again." Sigh. Like those approaching death, I feel I have now entered into the "bargaining" phase--"Ok, God, what if I give up everything but sugar in my tea? I mean, that's reasonable, right? You wouldn't take my tea from me, would you?" 
Wish me luck. 

Tuesday, February 10, 2009

Top 25.

Something a little lighter: here's my "top 25" note from facebook.

1. In chronological order, a list of my answers to the question, "What do you want to be when you grow up?": A washcloth. An old Chinese woman. A Native American. An archeologist who dug up Native American stuff. A Bollywood star. A Subway sandwich artist. Secretary of State. A Seattle barista.

2. My least favorite word: Cusp.

3. When I was 5, my dad took me to Sea World every Monday. My favorite part was the starfish petting pooI. I used to quiz the staff about starfish's ability to regenerate limbs while munching on churros and begging my dad to let me buy a carton of sardines to throw to Shamu.

4. I purchased my first orange two weeks ago. I liked it.

5. Growing up, my favorite "imagination game" was called "The Chocolate Game." My older sister would pretend to be a kidnapper luring me away with the promise of chocolate. It looks like both my sweet tooth and "middle child drama queen" complex developed at an early age.

6. Despite 12 years of practicing, I still cannot successfully say the sentence "I like to ice skate" in Chinese. The best I've ever managed convey is "I like ice."

7. I used to write on summer camp applications that I was allergic to raisins, just so that they wouldn't try to give them to me as a snack.

8. I have the constellation Aquarius on my left forearm in freckles. I'm actually a Capricorn.

9. One of my ears is slightly elf-shaped at the top. I was given the nickname "spock" in 4th grade because of it, but the nickname only stuck for about two days.

10. I once accidentally poisoned my older sister with paint thinner. My friend Kevin and I had spent the afternoon applying a bottle of pink nailpolish to my play kitchen, and my mother had spent the evening dutifully cleaning it off, leaving a pan of paint thinner behind after she was done. Watching TV that night, I very sweetly offered to get Amy a glass of water. I started to walk to the real kitchen- Oh, but look! A pan of water right here on my play kitchen, so conveniently located closeby to the TV. Little did I know. Amy was fine, by the way.

11. In junior high, I used to borrow Bindis from my Indian friends and sometimes wear them to school. This was still in my "I want to be a Bollywood star" phase.

12. I've travelled to 18 countries (though my sister will challenge me on whether Wales and Vatican City should be included in the count). Sadly, I've still yet to go to India.

13. I've never fallen down the stairs, but I'm pretty clumsy. I assume it to be a gospel truth that clumsy people fall down stairs. I'm always really careful going up and down stairs, now, figuring that my time is due.

14. For two years straight, every penny I threw into a fountain to make a wish I used to wish that I would become a half sea otter, half mermaid (I couldn't make up my mind, so I figured I would just mix them). I'm really not quite sure if I envisioned myself as a red headed, singing, amphibious woman with little furry legs, or a fuzzy little otter face with a fish tail. In any case, I just thought it would be cool to live in a big aquarium and have people come to see me.

15. In 7th grade, I won 1st place in the 100 meter hurdles during the district track meet.

16. I have a birthmark on the back of my left leg. When I wear shorts, helpful people often stop me to tell me that I have mud splattered on me. An awkward silence always follows after I have to tell them that it's actually attached.

17. I can eat a whole tub of rice pudding in one go.

18. In first grade, I was talking to a girl during class. The teacher turned around to yell at us, and mistakenly gave the other girl a "yellow card" for bad behavior, and didn't punish me at all. I spent the whole day in a moral crisis. After afternoon snack time, I went up to the punishment board and gave myself a yellow card, too. It was one of the biggest, scariest decisions I made that year.

19. After my brief hurdle career, I became a discus thrower. As a slender little 5'5" seventeen year old, I could squat 360 pounds and bench 130.

20. I once nearly burned down my kitchen while trying to make oatmeal. To be fair, I was 4 years old and couldn't read, nor (as it soon became very clear) could I operate a microwave. Still, I feel it was an early indication that I should stay out of the kitchen.

21. My first pet of my very own was a Japanese fighting fish I named "Butch." The first Butch died because I kept trying to take it out of its bowl and pet it. Once we bought Butch #2, it lived in peace and quiet until a family friend warned me not to overfeed it, or its stomach might explode. Picturing pyrotechnics, Butches #2 - #20 never lasted more than 3 weeks. I still feel a little guilty about it.

22. I had perfect attendence for two years of high school.

23. My first bouquet was from my dad on the day I learned to tie my shoes.

24. I was the last of my friends to learn how to ride a bike. Instead, I used a scooter, which was about 10 years before Razors made the kind of cool again.

25. I get the hiccups every time I walk into a large grocery store or department store.

Sunday, February 8, 2009

to ponder a kidnapping.

There are days that cause us to step back and consider the rhythms and elements of our daily life. Fresh eyes are hard to come by, and I suppose I appreciate even the bad news that jolts us from our routines to provide us with new perspective. Considering this morning's news of Philip Rizk (see post below), I am suddenly re-evaluating the previous events of my day, this February 8th, as more than a list of my daily interactions and transactions, but as evidence of a lifestyle, of an ideological position. My life here is a homey, wholesome, and Egyptian one. Phil's life is that of an activist. It has been unsettling to see the comparison.

9:31. I rolled over to turn off my cellphone alarm, which was chirping in my ear. I burrowed my face deeper into the hard mattress and scratchy sheets I was laying on. I didn't open my eyes yet. I was sleeping at my host family's house in Maasara, as my 16 year old host sister was still deep asleep on the couch next to me. My first conscious thought this morning: "I'm home." The bed was familiar. I could find my way through the apartment blindfolded. The noise of the propane tank vendor banging on his damn metal cans in the street was a familiar cadence. I don't like falling asleep with someone else in the room with me, but I really enjoy waking up that way. Knowing Sara was fighting to hold on to the last few minutes of sleep too was a comforting thought. My home. My bed. My sister. 

10:20. I had finally gotten myself out of bed (the unspeakable luxury of working the swing shift), dressed, and was now munching on french fries for breakfast with my host mom, Um Hani. They're in a pinch for money right now, with doctor's bills piling up, so french fries is what we've got to eat. I loved it. Sara and I had to shake Um Hani awake at 10am, and she was looking cranky. I giggled. Here is a true family moment--mom in her pajamas, grouching good naturedly about giving Sara her lunch money, wanting to get more sleep but wanting to fuss over us even more. 

I really had to get going in order to get home to Garden City in order to shower, change, and so forth before I went to prep my English lessons at work, but Um Hani was in a chatty mood and looking for someone to talk to. I curled up and cuddled with her as she told me all about how she had gotten married at 16, but how she would never--under any circumstances--let her 16 year old daughter get married to anyone that young. Apparently Sara, the youngest daughter, had a cousin in upper Egypt who wanted to marry her. 

"No way," grouched Um Hani. "I know about women in Upper Egypt. All they do is sit at home, eat, and make babies." I giggled a little bit, seeing a lot of that same description in Um Hani herself, but glad to know that she still had plenty of spunk left in her. 

11:15. Um Hani stuffs one last french fry into my overly-full belly, and I'm finally out the door. I get a phone call. Phil Rizk has been kidnapped by the security forces. My God. 

Conversations in which you receive bad news are usually terribly inarticulate, simplistic--even glib. This morning's was no better. 
"Phil Rizk has been kidnapped."
"Oh, wow, really? Man. Wow. I can't believe that. Wow."
"Ya, I know."
"Really. Wow. Do we know any details?"
"Not yet."
"Man. Ok. Man, that's awful. Wow, well, thanks for telling me."
"Sure, alright. Talk to you later."
"Ok, see ya."

I remember having a similar conversation when I found out about Patrick. Or when my mom was diagnosed with breast cancer for the second time. It takes time for these things to sink in, and it seems like our mouths just kind of blabber for a while to stall and give us time. 

Bad news rarely punches me in the stomach--rather, it just sort of shifts everything off kilter. It snaps me into a heightened awareness, a kind of alert unease. After I hung up the phone, I resumed the conversation I was having prior to hearing the news, but the whole time my brain was pulsing, "Phil Rizk is kidnapped. Phil Rizk is kidnapped." 

I should mention here that Phil is an acquaintance, not a close friend. I had a beer with him once, but beyond that, I only ever crossed paths with him as a guest speaker for my study abroad program, and know him more as a "friend of a friend" kind of capacity. Hearing bad news about this level of acquaintance is painfully awkward. 
I feel really upset about this. Wait, why? I don't really know him that well. But come on, do I need to justify feeling upset about someone I know getting kidnapped? I'm upset. But then, think about his close friends and family--I mean, they *really* feel upset. You can't really compare yourself to that.  Are you sure you aren't just trying to get on the "I know Phil Rizk" bandwagon now that he's a little famous? No-that's a ridiculous thought. I know him. This is a terrible thing--I'm allowed to feel upset.

And so on, back and forth. Or maybe no one else is as neurotic about such things? 

I am cautious in wanting to check that I'm not feeling upset for selfish reasons. It's such a simple thing to let upset feelings cover over an underlying feeling of guilty inadequacy. When an acquaintance is struck by tragedy, we are left feeling clumsy. Twiddling our thumbs, a sense of uselessness creeps in: if only I had known him better, been there when it happened, done something sooner. Making a big show of emotion becomes a kind of way to counteract our inadequacy. I really worry about doing that.

4:15. After I arrived at work, my mood became noticeably more agitated. I went into a classroom to do my lesson preps alone, instead of chatting with my coworkers like I usually do. I had brought with me a tomato/cucumber/red pepper salad in a tupperware bowl, and began distractedly eating it with my hands as I stared at my curriculum guide. I wanted chocolate. I wanted to sleep. I wanted to go home now. I noticed that my hands and jaw were clenched. I'm upset

Staring out the window, I watched veiled women and men in galibayas and teenage delivery boys on motorcycles passing by the window. A sweet potato vendor wheeled by his portable oven and wrapped hot potatoes in some kid's algebra homework. The breeze was warm. Isn't this the Egypt I know and love? But what about the police state and security forces--isn't that Egypt, too? These too images were difficult to bring together in my mind.
Somewhere in Egypt right now, Philip Rizk is in prison. Two school boys walked by, snacking on Doritos and talking loudly. How many Egyptians never have to interact with the security forces. And how many Egyptians have been abused and harassed by them. Which Egypt should I see when I look at the street? Which Egypt should I interact with?

I sigh and admit to myself: there is something selfish about feeling upset about this kidnapping. I am upset not only for the safety and well being of an acquaintance, but because this kidnapping points a finger back at me: He's an activist. Why aren't you?
I sit back and consider my life in Egypt: my host family, my internship, my friendships and relationships at my English center. All of these things are satisfying, all of them worthwhile. 
What about Gaza? What about the Sudanese refugees you said you were going to volunteer with? What about human rights, women's rights, voters' rights? 

I listen to the string of accusations circling in my mind, and then consider the costs of activism. Do I believe in a cause so strongly that I would be imprisoned for it? Tortured for it? Kidnapped for it? 
I drank a strong cup of black tea in the sweet afternoon sun, letting these unsettling questions wash over me. 




Kidnapping.

There are unfortunate moments when we remember that we are living in a security state. While my roommates and I remain safe, and have no reason to anticipate that we will ever be in harm's way during our stay in Egypt, a friend and colleague of ours was recently kidnapped by the Egyptian security forces.

Awareness and humiliation are some of the best tools to combat injustice--particularly injustice in which a government is complicit--so I wanted to use this space to post information about our friend Phil Rizk. 

Phil is a German-Egyptian dual citizen who is a masters student at the American University in Cairo, a filmmaker, and an activist for Palestinian rights, particularly related to Gaza. Background information on his documentaries can be viewed here.

He was kidnapped while participating in a non-violent march related to the treatment of Gazans in the recent conflict with Israel.

An eyewitness account of his kidnapping can be viewed here. Reuters has also issued a news release about it.

The AUC, the German embassy, his parents, and others with influence have been working to locate him and secure his release. Egyptian prisons and security forces have a documented history of torture and abuse, which gives us all ample cause for concern. Human Rights Watch and Amnesty International have worked to bring the issue of torture to the forefront of the American-Egyptian diplomatic agenda, but the U.S. has failed to pressure its ally into any serious reforms. 

There is both a facebook group and website to show solidarity with Phil Rizk and attempt to secure his release. Please spread the word and pray for his safety.

Wednesday, February 4, 2009

Donkey carts and Death to Busyness.

My roommate and I are lounging in our somewhat moldy but cheerfully homey apartment, discussing our acclimation to Egypt.

“You know what I realized today?” mused I.

“What’s that?” Kirsten responded, as she debated whether she should retrieve a glass of coconut juice from the fridge or simply lay on her lumpy, sawdust mattress a little longer.

“You know you’ve nearly become Egyptian when you’re not only used to seeing donkey carts crossing through busy intersections, but when you start to think to yourself, ‘you know, a donkey cart is a pretty sweet ride. Maybe I should get me one of those.’”

“I’ve stopped smelling Cairo,” came the response. “That's one way I know that I've gotten used to life here. The smell of sheesha used to hit me every time I walked in the street. Now, if I catch a strong whiff of it, I flashback to my first days in Egypt, when the smell overwhelmed me.”

I will mention here that my beloved roommate, who quickly turned distracted from this conversation thanks to a new email from a boy, also decided to stop using toilet paper in the name of cultural acquisition. Perhaps some western traditions are still good to be maintained.

Deeper questions of identity will be left for another day, but for right now, all I know is that my inner monologue sounds once again like a Persian carpet vendor and I’m considering joining my Egyptian friends in becoming a “fan” of “The Nile River” on facebook.

By the way—just a little bone to pick. I just saw an ad for the “snuggie” blanket that people are apparently wearing back in the U.S.? I might be considering buying myself a donkey cart, but it seems to me that America becomes equally strange every time I leave. Just as an aside.

In any case. This week I have declared Death to Busyness. Nothing could be more glorious. Right now, I’m working 5 days a week, but from 5-10:30pm. The result? Soaking up glorious sunshine, peace, and quiet, all the day long. Leave work for the gloomy nighttime hours anyway--just give me lots and lots of Egyptian sun.

Another roommate and I decided it would be a good thing to use our morning free time to learn Modern Standard Arabic—a different beast entirely than what they speak on the street. The first day, we rolled out of bed and managed to show up ruffle headed and a bit bleary eyed for an 8am class for the 2nd hardest language on the planet. We were greeted by a balding, 50-something man who has a bad habit of dabbing his lower lip with a Kleenex as he talks, quite unnecessarily. Although he awkwardly insisted from our first 5 minutes of class that we consider him “like our father” and feeds us peanuts by hand during class sometimes, he is an excellent teacher. I can now say, read and write such riveting captions to workbook pictures as: “Is this is a girl? No, this is a bucket.” The sense of progress and accomplishment almost makes me giddy after class. Ah, finally—I’m getting a systematic grasp on the language.

We leave class at 10:30, when the neighborhood has warmed to a pleasant bustle and the sun is warm. Like a true Egyptian—I am also wearing a sweater and scarf in 75 degree weather, in fear that I will be cold and unleash a plethora of diseases upon me.
I would like to note for the record, however, that the weather in Cairo on February 4th is as warm as any day in Seattle in July. The next time I try to tell someone from the Pacific Northwest that you have cold summers, please believe me.

After Arabic class, I have the glorious sensation of complete freedom ahead of me, knowing it will still be hours until I need to go to work. Today I celebrated by doing the nearly unthinkable: I cooked for nearly two hours this afternoon. For those of you awaiting my domestication, don’t celebrate quite yet. The whole affair was more of an sensory experience. I will maintain until my dying day that if the point of cooking is to feed yourself, it is never worth it to spend more than 15 minutes preparing anything. Two hours of kitchen prep for 10 minutes of enjoyment is simply a bad investment. Cooking as an activity, though? That’s something I’m willing to concede.

I set out this morning in search of ginger, which my Arabic teacher swore would help my cough go away if I drank it as tea. I’m not sure if it’s helping my cough at all, but the spiciness is fun. I wandered into the sooq this morning to find the spice vendor woman to buy my ginger. She flashed me a huge smile as I paid her my 20 cents for a packet of ginger powder, which lifted my mood even further. Hmm… it was a beautiful morning. It couldn’t hurt to meander through the vegetable stands, could it?

After a run-in with an amicable incense-burning gypsy who tried to chat me out of a few pounds, I emerged triumphant with potatoes, cilantro, red and yellow peppers, dill, and eggplant, all for a whopping $1.20. Now, call me a granola Seattle hipster, but how did we ever get away from shopping for groceries at farmers markets? There is something incredibly refreshing (and delicious) about eating produce that’s local, organic, and in-season…not because it’s hippie, but because that’s how people have eaten their food for thousands of years. It’s only in the past 50 years we’ve let people artificially ripen our food and sell water back to us in bottles. Strange, if you think about it.

In any case, I put on some cooking mood music, shut the kitchen door, and just let myself enjoy the tastes and smells and textures of all the food. My roommate and I had a good lunch out of it—but again, it’s a big let down for me to eat what I make. It’s just over way too fast. I probably won’t cook again for another month, but hey, it looks like the gods of the kitchen gave me a freebie for once: nothing burned. But, then again, I did just ruin yet another sweater in the washing machine, so it seems that the domestic gods are still after me.

For now, those are my notes from Cairo—a city I seem to be absorbing whether I want to or not (I do). Although, according to my Egyptian colleagues, no matter what I made for lunch this afternoon, I still can’t get married to a local if I don’t know how to cook rice. It looks like I’m safe for now.

All my best—take care!