Saturday, January 31, 2009

a new year, a new you.

Ah, Cairo. That wonderful and bewildering city.

Coming back home after 6 weeks away, I had the peculiar sensation of being in a new and foreign environment in which I strangely already knew how to act naturally. My eyes were all wide as I was taking in a fresh view of Egypt, now comparing it to what I had seen in my travels through other parts of the Islamic world in Morocco and Turkey--but my body was already back into its Egyptian rhythm, making gestures and jokes and rattling off Arabic that I had consciously forgotten. Some part of Egypt has imprinted itself deep into my muscle memory and unconsciousness. Watching my body go through the motions was a bit like watching myself in a dream. While a little disorienting, I was encouraged and relieved to remember how well I've come to fit in here. Making jokes with Egyptians might be the greatest feeling ever--nothing else gives me such a sense of belonging. I spent last night eating eggplant sandwiches and telling jokes with a Coptic friend about upper Egyptians (the Cairene version of rednecks). My heart was strangely warmed.

One thing my body had forgotten: dust and bacteria. It seems my body has sissified after 6 weeks of detox, and a cough has already started rattling around my chest a bit. To be fair, though, this cough may be due more to the toxic mold that has developed on the wall of our bedroom, rather than to ordinary Cairo dust. Oh, Egypt, you sneaky jokester, you--developing mold even in a desert climate.
For those of you tempted to be concerned--yes, our landlord is probably going to deal with it sometime soon, and no, we don't know for sure that it actually is toxic... and what's a mold-induced headache, anyway, for a fierce and independent woman?

I have returned to Cairo with a batch of New Year's Resolutions, however, all aiming to maintain a sense of zen tranquility and Pauline contentment in the midst of all the energy and noise of life here.

1. 2x a week yoga with Rodney Yee and his awkwardly revealing spandex shorts
2. Taking Arabic classes 3x a week from a language center down my street, rather than a slightly better center that's a half-hour commute away. The preservation of sanity is worth the slight ding in quality, I think.
3. Walking slowly. Everything seems nicer (and my body hurts less) at a slower pace, even as you have to jostle for walking room on the sidewalk and defend your space from all the other power commuting pedestrians.
4. Eating strawberries and oranges. Ah, thank you, Egypt: strawberry season starts in January here, apparently. My body threw a small party when I first popped some into my mouth. Best of all? 2 pounds of strawberries costs about 60 cents. Strawberries from now 'til judgment day.

In other words, I'm trying to kill a sense of busyness so that I can take in my remaining months in Egypt more enjoyably. Some changes in my work schedule have enabled that, too--my 6-month internship at the AL has officially come to a close. While I'll work every night teaching English, this gives me infinite ways to enjoy the bright sunshine of Egypt in the mornings. Aside from Arabic class and yoga, I'll hopefully begin volunteering with Sudanese refugees once a week.

More traveling stories to come soon, but for now, just a small update on life in Cairo.

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